This is exactly how to make your lace

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Buh-bye bulky helmet hair...

Thinking about buying a lace front wig? Firstly, you’re not alone. The world of lace-fronts can be a total minefield for any beginners looking to try out the increasingly popular style - and by popular, I mean 689.8M views-on-TikTok kind of popular. There are thousands of tutorials on YouTube with creators attempting to show just how to position and style a lace-front wig plus they’re worn by many a global star to create a new look every time they hit a red carpet.

I started my journey with lace fronts for my prom debut back in 2017. I went for gorgeous, kinky-curly bundles (three for my large-ish head) and had them sewn in. The lace front closure which came with the package was glued down using got2b Glued Blasting Freeze Spray and Moco De Gorilla Snot Gel - not to be confused with Gorilla Glue, IYKYK.

So, yes, my prom wig was a success but that was because I had it done professionally. My first few attempts at DIY lace front installation were less smooth. An at-home red transformation saw bright red hair dye leak onto the lace, giving me what looked like a burnt scalp in the middle of winter; a heartbreaking attempt at plucking a dense lace-front resulted in what looked like a balding faux pas and then there was the time where an oversized wig made me look like I had a hair helmet strapped on. But we all have to start somewhere and I promise there’s light at the end of the tunnel. Or should I say a snatched look at the end of a styling sesh?

Although it’s taken six years to hone my skills to transform an obvious wig to a natural-looking style that even has my mother second-guessing whether it’s my hair or not, I’ve narrowed down the dos, don’ts and need-to-knows I’ve picked up along the way, from the school of YouTube and TikTok, from hair professionals to wig enthusiasts and through good ol’ trial and error…

Quality is key for a ‘what lace?’ finish. Purchasing your lace front can feel difficult when faced with the many different types of wigs there are. If you’re unable to buy directly from a hairstylist, you’re best to start with a reputable hair brand like Ruka Hair, Radswan (for synthetic units) or Unice, who sell a range of hair types and colours to fulfil your lace front needs while also supplying a quality unit that’s affordable and unique.

Celebrity hairstylist and founder of HausofShee London, Sheena Adae-Amoakoh, has worked with the likes of Kehlani, Cardi B and LaLa Anthony and tells us that when looking for a lace front, the ultimate hack for a natural ‘what lace?’ finish is thin lace. “The thinner the lace, the better the 'melt' I would say. I always tell my client to avoid lace that isn't either HD or film lace because it'll be too thick, making that seamless 'what lace?' finish difficult to achieve,” Sheena explains. She also recommends checking the overall quality of the hair, looking out for any split ends and the feel of the hair, as well as the root to tip thickness.

Divine Hair salon owner and hair specialist Nadia Dedier emphasises that prep is key when it comes to applying a lace front. “Preparing your hair before putting a wig on includes making sure that your natural hair has been moisturised, whether through a steam or deep conditioning with a hair mask like Watermans Masque Me Hydrating Hair Mask, and using an oil.” Nadia recommends Mielle’s famous Rosemary and Mint Oil - for extra nourishment and to strengthen your hair and roots. Cornrows are the best option for a flat base underneath your wig which can help prevent a bumpy, helmet-like finish but if you’re in a rush, Nadia says a slick back ponytail can work just as well.

Then, to secure your edges underneath the lace front, HausOfShee’s Sheena actually advises against using an edge control to lay your edges, “because it always leaves white residue and can get very oily, causing the wig to lift sometimes.” Instead, go for a got2b spritz or a similar holding spray.

Wig stylist Naomi Kumson (NaeHairUk) recommends purchasing a quality lace glue and “spreading 2-3 layers like butter while drying in between the layers” for a long-lasting hold and a natural melt for your lace front. She encourages her clients to purchase Bold Hold - a water-based, non-toxic lace adhesive - but to find their list of vendors across the UK to ensure you’re buying the legit product and not a fake. She adds that staying away from alcohol based glues and sprays is the best option for your skin but since there’s yet to be an alcohol-free spray, Ebin New York Wonder Lace Bond Adhesive Spray is your best bet and a better alternative, she believes, to the infamous got2b spray.

Once your lace is glued down, apply a satin scarf or a wide elastic wig band over the lace front to set the glue. This can also be worn when you go to bed to keep your lace from shifting - a must if you’re a messy sleeper like me. Tie your hair with a Dreami silk scrunchie or try a heatless curler if you want to wake up with an instant bouncy blowdry and wear a bonnet to bed to prevent any tangling.

If the hairline of your wig looks bumpy once you’ve glued down your lace front, go in with the KeraCare Styling Wax Stick and swipe across your bumps before carefully using a hot comb or thin straighteners to flatten the hair in that area.

Washing a straight wig might leave it looking puffy and in need of serious treatment. Ideally, you want to blow-dry your wig and to do so, start out with the KeraCare Silken Seal Liquid Sheen for silky soft results to start as a base. Next, head in with a high-quality straightener. I love KEEO’s Genius Smart Glide Straightener - as it gives a flawless but not flat finish, retaining volume and protecting your strands from any pulling or clamping. Lastly, apply a hair oil - Bread Beauty Supply’s Hair Oil is a particular favourite of mine to smooth away any frizz and complete your sleek look with a layer of gloss. It’s giving ultimate bad b.

When styling a curly lace front, simple water in a spray bottle is your best friend. You’ll want to work a styling cream, like Shedid and Parish’s Curl Styler into your curls just as you would your natural hair, before finishing up with a gel, like Holy Curls’ citrusy 04 Gel for an extra, flake free-hold and a gorgeous scent. Curly wigs are susceptible to frizz, some curl types more than others, so to keep your hair hydrated throughout the day, have a conditioning spray like Wakati’s Reactivating Conditioning Mist to hand.

For synthetic units, the products you’d usually use for human hair extensions probably won’t work to their full potential. Instead opt for a dry oil spray like KeraCare’s Oil Sheen or a personal favourite of mine, got2b’s Oil-Licious dry mist, to add a glossy sheen to your hair that isn’t greasy or sticky. On the flip side, if your wig is looking too shiny, a realistic issue with synthetic lace front units, go in with a spritz of Monday’s Original Dry Shampoo to eliminate ‘platisticky’ shine and absorb any excess oils.

“A major DON’T will be to not over bleach the knots. This is what gives you the glowing orange or bright white roots which is never a good look,” Sheena emphasises, before adding: “If you need to tint your lace, avoid using foundations that have very orange undertones to colour/tint your lace before application. Makeup with a cooler undertone works best.”

“DO use an oil if it’s time to remove your lace front,” Naomi urges. While rubbing alcohol was the product of choice for lace removal a few years ago, it can have negative effects on the skin around your hairline, whereas an oil, worked into the lace and the glue, can cause the glue to slowly and safely lift, preserving your edges.

My final tip as a DIY lace front babe is to have fun with it. The lace front can be a versatile style and can help you transform into whatever look you desire. Buy that platinum blonde wig and become Barbie for a day, or do a fake big chop and go for a chin-length bob. The possibilities are endless.

Follow Lauren on Instagram here.

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