Polygel Nails Combine the Strength of Acrylics and the Flexibility of Gels

By Tori Crowther

Gone are the days when difficult-to-remove acrylics were your only option for long, shiny, long-lasting nails. Now there’s polygel, a fairly new nail enhancement that can give you the durable wear of acrylic extensions with the flexibility of gel. Yes, it would seem impossible for a material to behave like an acrylic and a gel, but in 2017, Gelish CEO and founder Danny Haile found a way to marry the best of both worlds.

Polygel is not just comfortable to wear and long-lasting, it’s also an easy nail enhancement to apply, which is why it’s been dubbed by experts and novices as one of the most innovative nail products to come to market. Ahead, two nail experts explain everything you need to know about polygel.

"Polygel is a hybrid product of acrylic and gel," explains Candice Idehen, manicurist and CEO of New York City-based Bed of Nails NYC salon. "That’s where ‘poly’ comes from; it’s two products in one." Polygel is used as a nail enhancement to create extensions or as a hard, protective overlay on natural nails.

Polygel differs from other available nail enhancing products in its initial texture and how it cures, explains Idehen: "Polygel is firm and has a putty consistency. It doesn’t move anywhere. Where you place it is where it stays. You have to manipulate the product to use it, which makes the polygel unique." After it is placed exactly where you want it, polygel has to be cured under a UV or LED light to harden.

In short, says Rica Romain, manicurist and nail-care specialist, "Polygel has the strength of acrylic, but is lighter, stronger, and more flexible."

When talking about differences between nail products, Idehen says it comes down to strength. Traditional nail polish and gel polish are the weakest, while dip, acrylic, hard gel, and polygel are more durable. "The cool thing about polygel," Idehen says, "is that because it has that gel-like consistency before it’s cured, it gives it a bit more flexibility than acrylic."

Regular gel polish is flexible and doesn’t provide structure or strength the way polygel does. "It’s just long-lasting color," says Idehen. When her clients are looking to grow out their nails, she suggests a more durable nail enhancement, such as polygel or acrylic, "that you can build with, so that it doesn’t snap and break at the point of stress, like where your nail leaves your nail bed."

Acrylic extensions are made of two products: a liquid monomer and acrylic powder, which together create a hardened base. (Polygel also uses a liquid slip solution to make it pliable.) Says Romain, "Polygel nails can be applied on top of a nail form and sculpted to create an extension of the nail, just like acrylic."

But acrylic and polygel differ in how they are applied. "[With acrylics], you have to know how much monomer you need to pick up with the powder so that you get the correct consistency for the bead before applying it to the nail," says Idehen. This aspect of acrylic application can take a long time, with a lot of training to get them perfect. But because polygel is premixed, "you don’t have to worry about ratios, and this makes it a lot easier to use and get to grips with."

Also, polygel does not have a smell. This is hugely different from acrylics, which have that intense scent you probably associate with walking into a nail salon. That strong smell sometimes deters people from having their nails done.

The last difference: "Polygel enhancements don’t usually need to be removed regularly," says Romain. "The nail growth area can simply be filled in with more polygel."

"Polygel can be done at home," says Idehen; however, "it does require all of the same skills that doing any other nail service requires." These include patience (and if you're a beginner, lots of it), knowledge of what you’re doing (more on this later), and having the right products at your fingertips.

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Before diving into the world of at-home polygel, though, there are a few more things to be cognizant of. The product itself will not damage your nail, provided you’re buying polygel supplies from a reputable brand (like Gelish and Mylee). "These brands use ingredients that are safe for skin and contact to skin,” Idehen says. “But there are sites out there selling nail products to the masses that might contain harmful ingredients."

Polygel is friendlier for at-home use than acrylic because it allows room for error that acrylic doesn’t. “Acrylic will dry on you as you're working, meaning you won’t be able to manipulate it," Idehen says. “With polygel, you can pretty much work with it until you’re happy and ready to cure."

If you are using polygel with dual forms, plastic pieces that act as a guide for shaping nail extensions, says Idehen, "it's almost a cheat way to create nail extensions."

Applying polygel with dual forms is pretty straightforward, but there is a technique to getting the best outcome. Read on for the steps to a typical application using a polygel kit that can be done in a salon or at home. (Steps may vary depending on the brand of polygel you’re using, so always review the manufacturer’s instructions.)

Also, Idehen cautions against using electric files (e-files) without training. "They can be dangerous because you need to be mindful of the speed you’re working at," she says. "Be careful not to over-file the nail plate, which can cause damage to the natural nail."

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Step 1: Prep your nail the same way you would if you were doing acrylics or gels. Says Idehen, "Remove any grease from the nail bed using pure acetone, push back the cuticles, and buff the nail plate — this step is essential to ensure the product can attach to the nail."

Step 2: Apply a base coat of gel and cure it under your curing lamp. (The length of time depends on the brand you’re using, so follow the instructions.)

Step 3: Before starting to work with the polygel product, size up all of your nails with the dual forms — this will make your life easier.

Step 4: Next, "put a bead of polygel inside the plastic tip and, using a brush, create your desired length in the tip," says Idehen.

Polygel comes in a tube and has the consistency of a thicker toothpaste, so "make sure to snip away the product from the tube with your poly-tool," says Romain. "Then, using your slip solution, pat the product into place in the tip, creating your desired length." After that, turn the tip over and place it on your nail, "making sure to not press too hard," Idehen advises.

Step 5: When the tip is in place, you can cure it under your lamp. It will form a hard base on your nail bed and then you can remove the plastic tip you used to press it down, leaving you with hardened gel. If it doesn’t look perfect at this stage, don’t panic; we’re not finished yet.

Step 6: The next step is filing and shaping your nails with a 180-grit file and buffer to smooth them out. Once you’re happy with the shape and finish, clean the entire nail surface with the solution and a lint-free wipe.

Step 7: After you’ve completed that step, "apply a thin layer of your topcoat and cure,” says Romain. “Then cleanse again with a lint-free nail wipe."

Step 8: Finally, no manicure is complete without massaging oil into the cuticles and skin surrounding the nail to keep everything hydrated and happy.

Yes, you can! "You’re able to do all the things you would do with acrylic or hard gel when it comes to painting and nail art," says Idehen. You can paint regular polish or gel polish over the top of a polygel base, just remember to finish it off with a topcoat.

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If you’re someone who always chooses the same neutral or baby pink, you’re in luck. Idehen says that a lot of brands make polygel in more classic, understated colors so you can just apply the polygel and topcoat with a clear coat to wear it on its own.

You can also create a French manicure with polygel using a neutral base and a white tip, but it requires a lot more skill. It’s best to wait until you’ve mastered the basics to try this look.

Polygel lasts the same amount of time as a typical nail enhancement: around three to four weeks. But polygel doesn't need to get soaked off; you just can just get it filled in. A fill-in is sometimes called a "rebalance," which requires your manicurist to remove the top gel polish layer and fill in the base of the nail where you’ve had growth.

An Cao, a manicurist and Orly educator, says fill-ins should be done by a professional. "If the product is lifting a little and you don’t remove or prep it correctly before applying the fill," she says, "you can risk getting fungus on your nail."

It’s worth noting that removal is often best left to the experts, even if you did the original manicure at home, because this is where you can damage your natural nail. Removing polygel is similar to removing hard gel, says Idehen. It isn’t acetone-soluble and requires you to file down the product. "This is where I do suggest using an e-file because it will take a long time to remove it manually," she adds.

Idehen typically starts with an e-file, buffing the material down to a thin layer, then files down the rest by hand with a 180-grit nail file. By using a hand file for the final layer of polygel, Idehen finds she's in total control over the pressure, movement, and area — which is much more gentle, intentional, and avoids nail bed damage. Romain also recommends visiting a salon to get your polygel removed to avoid damage, especially if you’re new to doing your nails.

Polygel is a nail enhancement that has the durability of acrylic (polygel nails are actually harder!) and the flexibility of a gel manicure. They’re easier to create at home than other nail enhancements, provided you have the patience to carefully follow the directions in your polygel kit. Removal, however, is best left to the experts to avoid damage — this stuff isn’t acetone-soluble and it lasts.

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